Sabbatical Post
1 – Arriving in Hanoi
We left Columbus Monday evening November 16.
As I write this blog, it’s Wednesday night, November 18 in Hanoi – a good exercise to try to stay up past 9 p.m.
We arrived in Hanoi about 11:30 a.m. this morning – which of course was 11:30 p.m. back in Columbus – after a Columbus to Chicago flight. . . and a Chicago to Seoul flight. . . and a Seoul to Hanoi flight.
Landing in Chicago:
It was an endless night:
we left Chicago at midnight central time and flew for something like 14
hours – and it was still nighttime when we arrived in Seoul – 4 a.m. local
time. But it was now Wednesday
morning. What happened to Tuesday? The sun never rose on Tuesday. Our north to west route took us backwards in
time and forwards in time (over the International Date Line)
simultaneously. Or something.
The plane was the same type that I recently took to and
from Israel. It seemed roomier. Was it just because it wasn’t full. . . and
we actually had THREE seats for the two of us?
The 3 of us? No trip would be complete without a rubber chicken.
A story I'll tell you later. Maybe.
|
Or was it laid out a little bigger? It seemed like even without the extra seat that my “personal space” was
bigger. I’m good at sleeping sitting up –
in part because I’m SUPPOSED to sleep that way with my “wedge pillow” to ward
off reflux. When I sleep on flights like
this, I don’t even recline my seat: I’m more comfortable just sitting straight
up. My wife prefers to lie down – and with
the 2 people in 3 seats layout, it worked out nicely for both of us. Truth is, that nighttime flight back from
Israel is typically one of my “best nights of sleep” of the year – so this was “even
better” because it was a longer flight.
Endless night. As we arrive in Asia, daytime has spread across the U.S.
But we haven't seen ANY daytime throughout our trip.
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Incheon Airport in Seoul -- A pretty fabulour place! |
Susan even
managed to participate in an “authentic Korean Culture” program – painting a
key ring that we’ll use for the key to the home we’re staying in in Hanoi.
Susan Gellman -- in South Korea for less than 5 hours --
HAS AN AUTHENTIC KOREAN CULTURE EXPERIENCE!
|
Our flight to Hanoi arrived shortly before 11:30 a.m.,
but it took well over an hour to clear customs and immigration, completing the
confusing Visa process. We came with
photos for our Vietnam visa and letters indicating what we were going to be
doing here. I’m not sure why this couldn’t
be done in advance, but we went through this process with dozens of other
travelers, finally getting the opportunity to pay $45 cash American each and
getting a pretty Vietnam Visa page added to our passports.
I remembered to hit the ATM before leaving the
airport. A longstanding family tradition
calls local currency Sigourbeys. I’m not
sure of the spelling on that – but it goes back to Gellman Family Vacations of
a full generation. The first such
vacation was when Susan was pregnant with Ben – who will be 30 next March. We took a family trip to Brazil – Ed and
Rosalie Gellman (Susan’s parents) and David (Susan’s brother) and Susan and
me. Permanent snapshot recollections
from that first family journey: 1) Susan floating on her back, 7 months
pregnant with Ben(jy), observed from our 17th story (or so) hotel
room in her ladybug pattern swimsuit. . . 2) a dinner with Gellman family
cousins in Sao Paolo where we expected exotic Brazilian cuisine, only to find
that these elderly Jews overcooked Eastern European Jewish food just like Ed’s
family. . . . 3) “Nobody told me it was the RAINY season” – a quote by a
stranger named Morty, the quintessential irritating American tourist. . . and
4) “Que Pasa” – what another hotel patron said to David when he opened his
hotel room at 4 in the morning because the drunk guy was trying to get in the
wrong room. . . and oh yes, there was the video I secretly made of the “South
American Bowl” – examining whether water really drained in the other direction
in the Southern Hemisphere. This was
back in the day of big, shoulder-held video cameras, and my little production
(filmed on January 1) was a surprise to everyone when we viewed the video after
our return.
Anyway. . . Sigourbeys here are called Dong. So of course Susan calls them Ding
Dongs. And the way it shakes out, we
were instant millionaires. I had read
that 21,000 dong equal one dollar.
Adjusting that to 20,000 dong, that means that 1000 dong equals a
nickel. So you can understand why I
simply withdrew THREE MILLION DONG at the airport ATM – and was able to hand my
wife A MILLION DING DONGS before we even left in the taxi for where we’ll be in
Hanoi. As it turns out, the exchange
right is even slightly stronger, dollar wise – at the moment 22,465 dong to a
dollar. Or a dong equals 0.000045
dollars.
The taxi they arranged for us took about 30 minutes to
arrive in the neighborhood of Mai Dich—about 9 km from Hanoi’s famous Old
Quarter – to our east. The airport (I
can see now) is 25 km to our north.
Google Maps says 42 minutes – but we did it in more like 30 minutes –
not going very fast, and maneuvering around typical Hanoi traffic. It seemed like our driver short-honked at
every vehicle we passed – and that many drivers like driving between
lanes. And as you get near the city you
get into the coexistence of cars and motorbikes. Quite a lively scene.
The program in which we’ll be involved (through the
Greenheart organization) is administered locally by CSDS – Center for
Sustainable Development Studies – a Vietnamese NGO. We’re staying in the home of the Nguyens, who
work in two different parts of the program.
We seem to have expelled their children, Kid and Nim (13-year-old boy
and 9-year-old girl) from their room – at least temporarily. There are 7 young people staying upstairs,
and others nearby at the building where the office is located.
Our first errands were to get SIM cards for our phones so
that we can function easily here in terms of phone and internet, and buy some
towels. What an incredible revolution
that is—going to a country halfway around the world, opening your smartphone,
inserting a different SIM card, and connecting to local telephone and worldwide
internet (and for a fraction here of the cost in the U.S. and (probably)
Europe). It was an easy transaction –
except for the fact that, had we not been accompanied by another employee of
CSDS, we wouldn’t possibly have been able to work out our needs and the
variations in what we were purchasing with the merchant who spoke no
English.
In the nearby market (but it seems like all of urban
Vietnam is a market), we looked at, haggled slightly, and purchased 4 very
colorful towels. Hung showed us the
office where we’ll be reporting tomorrow – and we stopped for a cup of
Vietnamese coffee – before returning to our new home, having dinner around 6
p.m. and then trying to stay up so that we won’t be waking in the middle of the
night.
Seen where we bought the towels. A taste of home? |
I’ve spent much of the last 6 weeks preparing to LEAVE
Columbus – trying to put things in order so that Tifereth Israel will function
pretty well in my absence. Pretty well –
we wouldn’t want it to function TOO well now, right?!
I really did almost no preparation until the trip over –
reading a small book at Vietnamese culture and habits, looking over the
pertinent sections of Fodor’s.
So here we are. . . having said a lot but having done
nothing.
Good Night (from) Vietnam
Jack Chomsky
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